Interior painting is the most commonly DIYed home improvement project and the one with the widest gap between a good result and a mediocre one. The difference is almost never the paint – it’s the preparation. Here’s what actually makes the difference.

The Preparation Nobody Does Completely

Washing the Walls

Paint doesn’t bond well to dirty surfaces, and all walls accumulate a layer of grease, dust, and fingerprints over time – particularly in kitchens and near light switches. Washing with a TSP substitute (trisodium phosphate is the traditional cleaner; modern substitutes work as well) before painting is the step most DIYers skip and most painting crews rush. It makes a genuine difference to adhesion.

Sanding

Glossy or semi-gloss surfaces need to be lightly sanded before repainting – new paint doesn’t bond well to a glossy surface. This includes previously painted trim, baseboards, and cabinets. It doesn’t mean stripping the surface; a light scuff with 120-grit sandpaper is sufficient.

Filling and Patching

Every nail hole, screw hole, hairline crack, and ding in the wall should be filled and sanded smooth before the first coat of paint goes on. In older Toronto homes – particularly those with plaster walls that have flexed and settled over decades – this is a meaningful amount of work. Skipping it means the paint dries around the imperfections rather than hiding them.

Caulking

Caulking the joint where the baseboard meets the wall, where trim meets wall, and where crown moulding meets ceiling gives the room a finished, custom look. Uncaulked joints show as dark lines in the finished product. This is a $10 tube of paintable latex caulk and 30 minutes of work that makes a several-hundred-dollar difference in the appearance.

Priming – When It’s Required

Primer is often positioned as an upsell. Sometimes it’s essential:

New drywall – the paper face absorbs paint unevenly; primer creates a uniform base
Dramatic colour change – especially going from dark to light, where the old colour bleeds through
Stain blocking – water stains, smoke damage, and marker bleed through latex paint; a shellac-based primer seals them
Fresh patches – repaired areas absorb paint differently from the surrounding wall; spot-priming prevents flash

If none of these conditions apply and you’re doing a same-colour or similar-colour repaint on surfaces in good condition, primer is optional.

Product Selection

We use Sherwin Williams for interior painting – specifically the Emerald line for living spaces where durability and washability matter, and duration for more budget-conscious applications. The quality difference between a premium paint and a budget paint is real and shows up in coverage (fewer coats needed), colour accuracy, and how the surface holds up to cleaning over time.

Sheen Selection

This is where homeowners often make the wrong choice:

Flat/matte: Ceilings and low-traffic areas. Hides imperfections best. Not washable.
Eggshell: Living rooms, bedrooms, hallways. The best all-around interior wall finish. Some washability.
Satin: Higher-traffic areas, children’s rooms, kitchens and bathrooms where you need more moisture resistance.
Semi-gloss: Trim, baseboards, doors, and cabinets. Durable, washable, and highlights detail work.
Gloss: Rarely used on walls; appropriate for high-moisture environments and feature applications.

The mistake is using flat paint everywhere because it looks the most ‘design-forward’ in photos – flat paint in a kitchen is a maintenance problem within months.

Two Coats Is the Minimum

One coat of paint is not a paint job. It’s a primer coat that happens to be coloured. Two full coats over a properly prepared surface is the minimum for a result that looks intentional and holds up. Three coats over a dramatic colour change is not unusual.

Ready to Talk?

If you have questions about your home – or you’re ready to get started – call us at 647-427-7366 or request a quote at thehandyforce.com. We serve East York, North York, and the surrounding Toronto neighbourhoods.